The Science and Art of Paleofying—Part 4 Sugars

December 8, 2012 in Baking Ingredients, Cooking Tips

Creating paleo adaptations of our favorite recipes (a.k.a. paleofying) helps us stay on board with paleo through the holidays (and many other times of the year), help us feel like we can still celebrate and partake in all of the fun and food luxury of the season.  I know that many of you are pulling out your old favorite recipes and wondering what to do with them (I’ve had many questions lately about rules of thumb for flour substitutions, and alternatives for those with nut or egg allergies).  I am too.  I have several family favorite recipes that I am tackling this year.

Paleofying is as much an art as it is a science.  I vaguely remember a time when I did not have extremely well-honed cooking instincts (I think that was back in middle school).  But even starting out as a fairly good cook, there was still a learning curve to all of these new ingredients and to baking without gluten.  After a year of paleo baking (and blogging!), I have a much better understanding of how to adapt conventional recipes now and thought it was high time I share some of this knowledge and experience with you, in addition to my perfected recipes.

This is the fourth in a 6-part post series to help you start the process of adapting your recipes (did I call this a 4-part series before?  Yes, I have realized I needed two extra parts and I reserve the right to expand this to a 7-part series if needed!).  In the first post, I discussed paleo flours and other ingredients that add bulk to a recipe.  In the second post, I discussed binders (ingredients that hold baking together).  In third post, I discussed leavening agents and fats.  In this part, I will discuss sugar.  Part 5 will discuss liquid ingredients and wet-to-dry ratios.  Part 6 will discuss some strategies for doing iterations and troubleshooting your recipes.  You may also be interested in some of my posts that reference paleo baking ingredients:  Important Pantry Items for The Paleo Baker, Paleo Flour Substitutes, Sugar vs. Sweeteners, and Is Sugar Paleo?).

I’ve written about sugar in a couple of posts (see Sugar vs. Sweeteners, and Is Sugar Paleo?).  I don’t want to get into the merit of different sugars in terms of health in this post, partly because I’ve already covered that and partly because this isn’t about which sugar is less bad for you.  We’ve already agreed that we are making a special treat, which means we’ve already decided a little sugar is okay.  This post is just about the chemistry of different sweeteners in your recipes.

Granulated sugar:

Most of the recipes you will be adapting will call for granulated sugar, typically white, light brown or dark brown.  It would be a completely valid choice to just use refined sugar in your recipe (see Is Sugar Paleo?), but really, I know that most of us feel better if we can use healthier options.  So, if your recipe calls for white sugar, the best substitute is Sucanat (also called Evaporated Cane Juice).  This will have a bit of a molasses flavor to it, which you may or may not like in your baking (and depending on what other flavors you have going on, you might not even notice).  Sucanat can be fairly large granules so you might want to pulse a few times in a food processor to replace white sugar in terms of texture too.

Dark Brown sugar can best be replaced by Muscovado Sugar (a.k.a. Barbados Sugar).  This is a rich, dark brown, very molassesy moist sugar that behaves just like dark brown sugar in a recipe (but is unrefined).  I love this stuff.  Light brown sugar is also better replaced by muscovado sugar because of the moisture that it has compared to sucanat, however the molasses flavor is stronger.  You could also replace light brown sugar with sucanat. and a little honey or molasses to replicate the moisture of light brown sugar.  The general rule of thumb is to replace 1 cup of brown sugar with 1 cup of white sugar (or sucanat in this case) + 1 ½ Tbsp molasses (or honey).

The other granulated sugar options that I like in terms of health are is date sugar and maple sugarDate sugar can replace either white or brown sugar in your recipe (although again, you may want to add a little molasses or honey for moisture).  Maple sugar has a very strong maple syrup flavor, which may or may not be desired.  No, I don’t like powdered sugar alcohols, stevia, or coconut/palm sugar.  I don’t like palm sugar (a.k.a. coconut sugar) because it is very high in inulin fiber, which is a FODMAP and is not easily digestible by most people.  I don’t like stevia because it has a hormone structure and the longterm effects of regular consumption have not been studied.  I don’t like sugar alcohols because they are gut irritants (with the possible exception of erythritol, but I’m not comfortable enough with its benign-ness to actually recommend it).  Just stick with glucose/sucrose (your body knows what to do with it) and don’t eat too much.

Generally, 1 cup of granulated sugar equals 1 cup packed brown sugar or 1 cup of super-fine sugar.  Really, you can replace granulated sugar cup for cup with any other form of granulated sugar.

One of the biggest things that you will probably consider doing with your recipes is decreasing the overall sugar content.  I typically use as little as a quarter the sugar called for in the original recipe when I’m paleofying.  In this case, it helps to know if sugar is a dry ingredient or a wet ingredient so you can figure out what other adjustments need to be made.  Even though granulated sugar feels dry, it’s really a wet ingredient (although, when it’s creamed with butter, it also adds to the lightness of a recipe and in that respect behaves a little more like a dry ingredient).  It doesn’t contribute that much moisture though, so I’ve been relatively successful drastically reducing the amount of granulated sugar in a recipe without any other adjustments.  However, if you choose to replace sugar with honey, molasses, dried fruit, applesauce etc., you will almost always have to adjust the wet and dry ingredients accordingly.

Liquid sugar:

If a recipe calls for molasses, honey, or maple syrup, then you’re in luck.  If you want to use less that your recipe calls for though, you will have to adjust your wet and dry ingredients, either by adding to your wet ingredients or by reducing your dry ingredients.

If a recipe calls for corn syrup, honey makes a pretty good substitute most of the time.  It doesn’t have quite the thickness or the ability to form long strings (unless you’re making a candy and then it works very well).  You can also replace each 1 cup of corn syrup with 1 cup granulated sugar (like sucanat) plus 1/4 cup whatever liquid is used in the recipe (water, coconut milk, etc.).

If you want to replace granulated sugar with a liquid sugar, then typically adjusting the wet and dry ingredients is necessary.  The exception is if you plan to replace some or all of the flour in a recipe with coconut flour.  In that case, replacing sugar with honey or molasses can actually really help a coconut flour based recipe hold together since coconut flour is such a thirsty flour (it absorbs water like crazy!).

When can you replace granulated sugar with liquid sugar?  This is tricky to do in cookies, but it is possible (see my Orange-Strawberry (Nut-Free) Cut-Out Cookies and Chocolate Cut-Out Cookies (Nut-Free)).  It’s much easier to do with cake and muffin recipes where there’s naturally more wet ingredients.

If you are trying to figure out sweetness levels to gauge how much honey or maple syrup to add, here’s a general guide (this is by sweetness):

3/4 cup sugar = 1 cup unsulphured molasses.
Also, decrease the liquid by 1/4 cup for each cup of molasses, omit any baking powder and add 1/2 teaspoon baking soda instead.

1 1/4 cups sugar = 1 cup honey or maple syrup.  Also, decrease liquid by 1/3 cup.

No, I don’t like agave nectar because it is high in fructose (what’s the point in avoiding high fructose corn syrup if we’re just going to eat agave?).  It might be important to mention that some honey can be high in fructose too.  If you have a FODMAP sensitivity and honey is a problem, there’s a huge variability in the fructose content from batch to batch and brand to brand, so simply trying another brand may be better tolerated.  Honey also has the highest quantity of monosaccharaides, so often those with SIBO can tolerate honey but no other sugars.

Some flavor tips:  I like the combination of maple syrup and honey to provide a more neutral flavor (neither the honey nor the maple syrup overwhelms) such as in my Best Paleo Pumpkin Pie recipe.  Molasses pairs very beautifully with chocolate and coffee flavors and can actually trick the palate into thinking a chocolate flavor is stronger.

Icing/Confectioners sugar:

Icing sugar (a.k.a. confectioners’ sugar) contains corn starch and is not paleo.  You can make a very fine powder by wizzing sucanat in your food processor or blender for a minute (careful when you take off the lid because it does that same powder in the air thing that icing sugar does).  If you need the drying effects of the corn starch in icing sugar (which you may if you’re making a frosting or icing to pipe onto cookies), try adding some arrowroot powder, perhaps as little as 1-2 Tbsp per cup of sugar.  As a general place to start, replace

1 ¾ cups icing sugar = 1 cup ground granulated sugar + ¾ cups arrowroot powder.

Other Ways to Get Sweetness into Your Baking:

Depending on how long you’ve been paleo (and exactly what version of paleo you follow), your sweet tooth will have adapted quite dramatically.  You might even find that your baking is sweet enough with the inclusion of some fruit ingredients and that you don’t need sugar or honey at all.  Here are some other ingredients that add sweetness to baking.

Fresh or Stewed Pureed Fruit—This is anything like mashed banana, applesauce, pearsauce, reconstituted dates, etc.  You might be using this as a binder, but remember that is also adds sweetness to your recipe.

Dried Fruit—dates are magical, but they aren’t the only dried fruit around.  Raisins, dried cranberries (typically sweetened), dried apricots, dried papaya, dried pineapple, dried blueberries, dried strawberries, dried cherries, dried figs and dates all add sweetness and a lovely chew to a recipe.  If a recipe calls for raisins, try replacing with a mix of dried fruit for a different flavor.  Blended, these dried fruit can also help bind a recipe.

Chocolate—unless you are using 100% cocoa dark/baking chocolate or cocoa powder, you are adding sugar to your recipe.  I have had great success with some recipes using only semisweet chocolate as a sweetener (see my Decadent Double Chocolate Cookies (Nut-free, Coconut-free, Egg-free) and Chocolate Cupcakes with Ganache Frosting (nut-free) recipes).

A note on candy making:  it’s very challenging to reduce the amount of sugar when making confections because heating the sugar and making long strings of sugar molecules is the whole reason why you can achieve the desired result (whether a chewy toffee or crunchy brittle).  While changing the total amount of sugar doesn’t typically work, you can often change the type of sugar (replace granulated sugar and water with honey for example).  You can also reduce the total sweetness with other tricks, like adding more nuts to a brittle.

I hope this will get you started on your paleofying adventures.  As you play more and more with these ingredients and get to understand their properties better, it will be easier to intuit what will work in any particular recipe.  But, I still have recipes that take me many iterations to get right.  And of course, if you adapt a recipe that is absolutely awesome, you are welcome to e-mail it to me to share on the blog:  thepaleomommy@gmail.com

The Science and Art of Paleofying—Part 3 Leavening and Fats

November 29, 2012 in Baking Ingredients, Cooking Tips

Creating paleo adaptations of our favorite recipes (a.k.a. paleofying) helps us stay on board with paleo through the holidays (and many other times of the year), help us feel like we can still celebrate and partake in all of the fun and food luxury of the season.  I know that many of you are pulling out your old favorite recipes and wondering what to do with them (I’ve had many questions lately about rules of thumb for flour substitutions, and alternatives for those with nut or egg allergies).  I am too.  I have several family favorite recipes that I am tackling this year.

Paleofying is as much an art as it is a science.  I vaguely remember a time when I did not have extremely well-honed cooking instincts (I think that was back in middle school).  But even starting out as a fairly good cook, there was still a learning curve to all of these new ingredients and to baking without gluten.  After a year of paleo baking (and blogging!), I have a much better understanding of how to adapt conventional recipes now and thought it was high time I share some of this knowledge and experience with you, in addition to my perfected recipes.

This is the third in a 6-part post series to help you start the process of adapting your recipes (did I call this a 4-part series before?  Yes, I just realized I needed two extra parts and I reserve the right to expand this to a 7-part series if needed!).  In the first post, I discussed paleo flours and other ingredients that add bulk to a recipe.  In the second post, I discussed binders (ingredients that hold baking together).  In this post, I will discuss leavening agents and fats.  In part 4, I will discuss sweeteners.  Part 5 will discuss liquid ingredients and wet-to-dry ratios.  Part 6 will discuss some strategies for doing iterations and troubleshooting your recipes.  You may also be interested in some of my posts that reference paleo baking ingredients:  Important Pantry Items for The Paleo Baker, Paleo Flour Substitutes, Sugar vs. Sweeteners, and Is Sugar Paleo?).

Leavening Agents

Let’s start with leavening agents.  Leavening means anything that puts little bubbles of air into your baking making it lighter, often “rising” while baking.  Classic leavening agents are baking soda, baking powder, yeast, butter (or more specifically the butter sugar combination), and eggs.

Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate.  It comes from a natural mineral that was originally mined, but is now made industrially using the miracles of chemistry.  Sodium bicarbonate is an alkali, so when it mixes with acid, it undergoes a chemical reaction and CO2 bubbles are released (woohoo for acid-base chemistry!).  Depending on how much acid it is mixed with, it either reacts slowly or very quickly (think homemade volcano science projects).  If your recipe calls for baking soda, then no substitution is necessary.

Baking powder is not paleo.  It contains corn starch (corn-free versions typically contain potato starch).  It’s actually one of my biggest pet peeves to see baking powder in paleo recipes because that little bit of corn starch can be a big problem for many people.  However, the active ingredients in baking powder, baking soda and potassium hydrogen tartrate (a.k.a. tartaric acid, a.k.a. cream of tartar), are paleo.

Tartaric acid is an acid naturally found in grapes and is a byproduct of wine making. You can buy cream of tartar in the spice or baking section of just about any grocery store.  Cream of tartar is an acidifying agent.  It provides the necessary acid for baking soda to react with to make its little CO2 bubbles.  Baking powder contains both baking soda and cream of tartar (and the aforementioned corn starch as a drying agent), so if you recipe calls for baking powder, here are some simple substitutions:

1 tsp baking powder=1/4 tsp baking soda + ½ tsp cream of tartar
or
1 tsp bakin powder=1/4 tsp baking soda + 1½ tsp vinegar or lemon juice
or
1 tsp baking powder=1/4 tsp baking soda + ¼ cup molasses
or
1 tsp baking powder=1/4 tsp baking soda + some other acidic ingredients like applesauce

I will only briefly mention here that baker’s yeast is a perfectly acceptable ingredient to use in paleo baking (see my post Is Yeast Paleo?).  However, you will have to pay close attention to binders in your recipe to hold in the air bubbles that yeast makes.  I have two yeast-based paleo bread recipes (almond flour and nut-free) and both took many, many iterations to get right.

Cookie recipes will often use the combination of butter creamed with granulated sugar to achieve some lightness.  You can still do this with paleo baking as long as you use a granulated sugar (there are unrefined options which I will talk about more in the next post of this series).  If you replace sugars with liquid sweeteners like honey or with fruit, then you might need to add a little extra baking soda to replace the leavening effects of the butter and sugar.  You won’t need much though, maybe as little as an extra 1/8-1/4 tsp.

Eggs provide leavening in addition to binding in many recipes, especially if the recipe calls for beating the eggs very well before adding in other ingredients or separating the eggs and beating the whites.  If you are struggling with dense baking (especially cakes and breads), then before changing anything, try beating your eggs for 3-5 minutes (this works best if the eggs are room temperature).  You can also try beating the egg whites and folding them in (see my recipes for Holiday Trifle, Paleo Styleand Cinnamon “French Toast” Flat-bread (Nut-Free)).

Fats

If your recipe calls for vegetable oil, then the typical paleo oil replacement is melted extra virgin coconut oil.  If you don’t want to coconut flavor that this brings to your baking, you can use a naturally refined coconut oil instead.  Olive oil or avocado oil are also acceptable substitutes for vegetable oil in baking.  While these oils have a higher mono- and polyunsaturated fat content, as long as you are baking at 350F or less, you really don’t need to worry about the fats oxidizing.

If your recipe calls for peanut butter, then Almond Butter or any other nut butter will work well.  Sometimes mixing a couple of different nut butters (like Almond Butter, Walnut Butter, and Pecan Butter) will provide a more neutral taste.  You can also substitute some of all of the fat in a recipe with nut butters (or even coconut cream concentrate), which works well for cookies but can also be used in breads and cakes.  Because of the fiber in nut butters, these can also help act as binders.

If your recipe calls for butter and you cannot tolerate any dairy, then palm shortening is the most similar ingredient in terms of chemistry.  Lard also works.  Often people get stuck on just using coconut oil for baking, but coconut oil can make baking heavy and chewy, which isn’t always desired.  I find palm shortening especially useful in cake recipes where butter contributes to the lightness of the cake.  It will also be helpful in cookie recipes to achieve a crispier, less chewy, cookie.  If you do want chewy cookies, then coconut oil is a great choice.

If your recipe calls for shortening or margarine, palm shortening is your go to substitute.  You could also use butter or lard.

When my paleo recipes call from palm shortening versus coconut oil, it is always extremely intentional.  They have very different properties in baking.  Palm shortening will help thicken a batter, keep baking lighter, provide a completely neutral flavor.  Coconut oil is healthier and can help hold a recipe that is short on binders together.  I love coconut oil for cookies because I tend to love chewy cookies.  It’s also great for use in brownie type recipe, anything where that chew is a good thing.

I will talk more about fatty liquids like heavy cream and buttermilk in the 5th post of this series, but I will mention here that if whipped heavy cream is an ingredient in your baking and you can not tolerate any dairy (many paleo enthusiasts still consume heavy cream, especially if grass-fed), then whipped coconut “cream” is a good substitute.  Chill a can of coconut milk in the fridge for 24 hours.  Carefully scoop out the solid half at the top of the can, whip and go.  You can also use Anoy-D brand coconut cream and then you don’t have to worry about what to do with your half can of coconut water when you’re done.  If your coconut cream isn’t holding together (sometimes happens if you get too much liquid from the bottom of the can mixed in), then try adding a little arrowroot powder to help it hold together.

One more quick note on fats.  Many recipes that we might want to adapt are “low fat” recipes from the last 30 years of fat-phobia.  I often find myself increasing the amount of fat in a recipe, either by straight up using more fat or by using nut flours that are higher in fat or replacing dry ingredients with fat (like using full fat coconut milk).  Increasing the fat too much in a recipe can cause baking to be quite heavy, but sometimes increasing it a little can work magic.  More fat often means it holds together better, and depending on what fat you use, you can have better control over the texture.  And the best part?  High fat baking tends to taste great even with less sugar.

I hope this will get you started on your paleofying adventures.  As you play more and more with these ingredients and get to understand their properties better, it will be easier to intuit what will work in any particular recipe.  But, I still have recipes that take me many iterations to get right.  And of course, if you adapt a recipe that is absolutely awesome, you are welcome to e-mail it to me to share on the blog:  thepaleomommy@gmail.com

The Science and Art of Paleofying—Part 2 Binders

November 20, 2012 in Baking Ingredients, Cooking Tips

Creating paleo adaptations of our favorite recipes (a.k.a. paleofying) helps us stay on board with paleo through the holidays (and many other times of the year), help us feel like we can still celebrate and partake in all of the fun and food luxury of the season.  I know that many of you are pulling out your old favorite recipes and wondering what to do with them (I’ve had many questions lately about rules of thumb for flour substitutions, and alternatives for those with nut or egg allergies).  I am too.  I have several family favorite recipes that I am tackling this year.

Paleofying is as much an art as it is a science.  I vaguely remember a time when I did not have extremely well-honed cooking instincts (I think that was back in middle school).  But even starting out as a fairly good cook, there was still a learning curve to all of these new ingredients and to baking without gluten.  After a year of paleo baking (and blogging!), I have a much better understanding of how to adapt conventional recipes now and thought it was high time I share some of this knowledge and experience with you, in addition to my perfected recipes.  This is the second in a 4-part post series to help you start the process of adapting your recipes.

This post is the second in a 4-post series.  In the first post, I discussed paleo flours and other ingredients that add bulk to a recipe.  This post will discuss binders (ingredients that hold baking together).  Part 3 will discuss leavening agents, fats and sweeteners.  Part 4 will discuss some strategies for doing iterations and troubleshooting your recipes.  You may also be interested in some of my posts that reference paleo baking ingredients:  Important Pantry Items for The Paleo Baker, Paleo Flour Substitutes, Sugar vs. Sweeteners, and Is Sugar Paleo?).

Binders are ingredients that help hold baking together.  The most common binders are eggs and gluten.  Most of us are happy using eggs (although I will discuss egg substitutes here too).  But replacing the binding power of gluten can be quite a challenge.  Once you’ve figured out your flour substitutes, you still might need to add or change other ingredients to help your baking hold together.

EggEggs are by far the best binder in the paleo toolkit.  If your recipe needs a little help holding together, adding an extra egg (or two) is a great strategy.  If adding a whole eggs adds too much moisture to your baking, try just adding an extra egg white (which is the part of the egg that really does the binding job).

If there are eggs in your recipe, they might be there to act as a binder or for another purpose.  Eggs can bind, but they can also add moisture and add lightness to a recipe.  If an egg is adding moisture (often the case if the recipe calls for several eggs) and you want to use a liquid sweetener instead of granulated sugar, you can try using 1 or 2 less eggs.  If eggs are just there to add moisture, replacing with any wet ingredients is pretty straight forward if you have a reason to avoid eggs.

To add lightness to a recipe (especially cakes and breads), try beating your eggs for 3-5 minutes before mixing with your other ingredients (see my paleo “multigrain’ bread for an example).  A very powerful strategy for cake recipes is to separate the eggs and beat the whites until stiff peaks form and then fold into the other ingredients (see my holiday trifle recipe).

But, eggs are not the only binders in town.  You might want the flavor contribution of another binder or you might be trying to avoid an overly eggy taste in your baking.  Adding too many eggs can also give that omelet type texture that might not be what you’re looking for.  And, since eggs to add liquid to a recipe, you might be battling with too moist of a dough or batter.  Many people are sensitive to eggs and want to avoid them completely. There are some great alternatives to eggs for your paleofying adventures.  The binders below might be used in conjunction with eggs and some of them as egg substitutes (exact substitutions are mentioned where appropriate).  These work in a variety of ways (some better than others).  You’ll also note that many of the ingredients listed below were also listed as flour substitutes.  Keep this in mind as you adapt your recipes.  Depending on your recipe, you may want to use one or several of these binders to get a bit more hold.

Nut and Seed Butters—Almond Butter, Sunflower Seed Butter, Tahini, Hazelnut Butter, Macadamia/Cashew Butter, Sprouted Macadamia Butter, Walnut Butter, Pecan Butter and others.  Adding nut butters to replace or add to the fat ingredients in a recipe can actually help a recipe hold together quite well.  This is because of the fiber and the fats in nut butters.  This is a great strategy for cookies and squares since it also doesn’t add much moisture.  I wouldn’t recommend substituting all of the eggs in a recipe with nut or seed butters, but you could substitute 1 or even 2.  To use as an egg substitute, substitute ¼-1/3 cup nut butter for each egg.

Flax meal (a.k.a. ground flax seed)—Flax can add hold and elasticity to a recipe when added either as a dry ingredient, replacing some of the flour, or as a wet ingredient, replacing or adding to eggs.  1 Tbsp of ground flax seed mixed with 3 Tbsp of water (and left to sit for 2-3 minutes) makes a very reasonable egg substitute.  There is no difference between regular ground flax seed and ground golden flax seed in terms of kitchen chemistry, although you might desire the look of one versus the other.  Sometimes a recipe needs the hold of an egg but not the moisture that an egg gives.  In this case, you can mix 1 Tbsp of ground flax seed with 1½-2 Tbsp of water (see my paleo chewy granola bar recipe as an example).  Chia seeds can be used similarly, but chia is a pseudograin and Prof. Loren Cordain comes down pretty hard on them in his book The Paleo Answer.  Another similar seed in hemp seed.  I haven’t seen a good argument for or against them (but maybe a good option for those who are sensitive to flax but not seeds in general).

Mashed Banana—You know how bananas feel pretty slimy when you mash them?  That’s what makes bananas such a great binder.  It’s because of the starch and fiber in bananas (this is true for plantains, yucca, and taro too).  Slimy=good binder.  The only downside is that bananas have a habit of overwhelming whatever other flavors you have going on, so this really only works if you want a distinct banana flavor in your baking.  To substitute 1 egg, add 1/4 cup mashed banana (about ½ of an average sized banana).

Applesauce or grated apple—Apples are high in pectin, a fiber that has a fair bit of thickening and binding ability (pectin is added to jams to make them gel).  Pears can also work here with not quite as much binding ability.  Applesauce also adds moisture, so this is a great binder for cakes of all kinds (muffins, brownies, coffee breads, etc.).  It’s also not so strong of a flavor that it can be hidden by other ingredients.  Chunky applesauce (applesauce that is fork mashed as opposed to blended) can add a nice texture to muffins and coffeebreads.  Blending applesauce will give a smoother texture to your baking.  Grated apple is a neat trick to add a binder to fruit pie fillings. To substitute eggs with applesauce in a recipe, sub 1/3 cup applesauce for each egg.

PumpkinPumpkin puree can act as a binder (starch and fiber) although not as well as banana or applesauce.  It also has a flavor that is very easy to mask.  To substitute 1 egg, add 1/3 cup pureed pumpkin.

Pureed Plantain (ripe or green)—Both green and ripe plantain puree can add substantial hold to a recipe (yep, fiber).  Green plantains add more starch and a little less hold than ripe plantains, but have a very neutral flavor.  Ripe plantains are fantastic binders and add a little sweetness, but similar to bananas, ripe plantains add a distinctive flavor.  To substitute 1 egg, add 1/4 cup mashed ripe plantain or 1/3 cup mashed green plantain (1 average sized plantain typically yields ¾ cups puree).  I’ve used plantain as a flour and binder in my perfect paleo pancakes, paleo crepes, and decadent double chocolate cookies.

GelatinThis works brilliantly as an egg substitute for custards, cakes and muffins.  Dissolve 1 Tbsp of gelatin into 3 Tbsp of warm water and substitute this for 1 egg.  If you substitute too many eggs with gelatin, you will get an overly spongy, chewy texture, so if your recipe calls for several eggs, you can replace half with gelatin and half with one of the other egg substitutes listed here.  Gelatin has the added benefit of adding some protein in the form of those healing amino acids glycine and proline.

AgarI always use gelatin in lieu of agar, since gelatin is so healthy.  However, agar works similarly.  To replace a whole egg, dissolve 1 Tbsp agar powder into 3 Tbsp water.  You can also use agar as an egg white substitute.  For each egg white, dissolve 1 Tbsp plain agar powder into 1 tbsp water. Whip, chill and whip again.

PectinPectin is a fiber naturally found in fruit (the reason why apples make such a good binder).  You can buy pectin powder (usually with the canning supplies) and add 1-2 tsp to bread and cake recipes as a binder (see my hot cross bun recipe as an example).  Be cautious with this one though because the added fiber can be tough for some people to digest.

Tapioca StarchTapioca starch or flour is ground dehydrated cassava root (also called yucca and manioc).  It can act as a binder in a recipe that doesn’t add to the wet ingredients (this can be very helpful if you are substituting a liquid sweetener like honey for granulated sugar in a recipe).  Keep in mind that tapioca is a gluten cross-reactor and that Prof. Loren Cordain comes down pretty hard on bitter cassava root (the sweet cassava is what is typically found in stores and used to make tapioca) in his book The Paleo Answer.

Honey and MolassesReplacing granulated sugar in a recipe with a liquid sweetener can be tricky, but honey and molasses do help hold baking together and can contribute a nice chew to cookies.  Maple syrup does so as well but to a lesser extent.  I will discuss these as a sugar substitute more in the next post in this series.

Pureed Root Vegetables—Yucca (aka Cassava, aka manioc, aka yucca) is brilliant at holding baking together.  Peel it and cube it (removing the tough string that runs down the middle of it) and boil as you would potatos in salted water until the pieces slide off a knife when posed (typically 20-30 minutes, depending on the size of your cubes).  Drain and mash by hand with a potato masher or strong fork.  It is incredibly slimey and will do bad things to a blender or emersion blender (I haven’t tried it in a food processor and have no intensions of trying after what it did to my hand blender).  It’s also tough to clean, so clean anything by hand (a dishwasher won’t touch it).  For an example, see my paleo biscuits recipe.  Taro is very similar.  To use taro, steam whole taro roots (unpeeled) for 10-20 minutes depending on the size, until soft enough to pierce with a sharp knife but still a little firm.  Let cool, peel, and mash by hand.  Taro and yucca also are a little sweet, which can be very helpful in some recipes.  Other pureed vegetables can help hold baking together too.  Typically, the starchier they are, the better.  Other great options are mashed sweet potato, parsnip, winter squash, and carrot (pumpkin and plantain have already been covered).

Coconut oil (and other fats)—Adding some extra fat to your recipe will help it hold together.  Coconut oil is probably the best for holding baking together and gives baking a bit more chew (great for cookies, brownies, etc.).  Palm shortening, butter or lard will give it a bit more lightness and still help it hold together.  As a general rule ¼ cup of oil is equivalent to 1 egg.

I hope this will get you started on your paleofying adventures.  As you play more and more with these ingredients and get to understand their properties better, it will be easier to intuit what will work in any particular recipe.  But, I still have recipes that take me many iterations to get right.  And of course, if you adapt a recipe that is absolutely awesome, you are welcome to e-mail it to me to share on the blog:  thepaleomommy@gmail.com

The Science and Art of Paleofying—Part 1 Paleo Flours

November 15, 2012 in Baking Ingredients, Cooking Tips

Paleofying is often used as a derogatory term to describe the process of adapting Neolithic foods, typically desserts and sweet treats, to use only paleo-approved ingredients.  While some people look down on this practice as not addressing the problems of excess carbohydrate consumption and food addiction, I look at it as an important tool—it is a powerful strategy for making paleo accessible and sustainable for the general public.  Eating a restricted diet is much easier when you feel like you can still have birthday cake, can still celebrate a job promotion with a special dessert, can still bring cookies to your kid’s bake sale, can still make pancakes for Sunday brunch, and generally still get to eat delicious foods.  Paleofied baked goods mean that having a treat won’t damage your gut, cause rampant inflammation, or create a cycle of food cravings.  I like the word paleofy.  To me, this represents the union of nutrient-rich, anti-inflammatory “old” foods and modern life.

As we start the lead up to the holiday season, many of us are looking at conventional holiday baked good recipes and wondering how easy those recipes would be to adapt to paleo ingredients.  Yep, I’m doing this too.  Whether these are family favorites or recipes that just look delicious off of pinterest or in magazines, the first step to paelofying is deciding what recipe to start with.  Gluten-free recipes are often a great place to start, as long as the recipe don’t rely too heavily on xanthum gum to hold it together.  Other recipes that are often good bets too are those that use cake flour, use at least a couple of eggs, have dried fruit, have fruit or vegetable purees, have liquid sweeteners (like honey), or that have fairly large amounts of fat in them.

Paleofying is as much an art as it is a science.  I vaguely remember a time when I did not have extremely well-honed cooking instincts (I think that was back in middle school).  But even starting out as a fairly good cook, there was a steep learning curve to all of these new ingredients and to baking without gluten.  After a year of paleo baking (and blogging!), I have a much better understanding of how to adapt conventional recipes now and thought it was high time I share some of this knowledge and experience with you, in addition to my perfected recipes.

This post is the first in a 4-post series.  In this post, I will discuss paleo flours and other ingredients that add bulk to a recipe.  Part 2 of this series will discuss binders (ingredients that hold baking together).  Part 3 will discuss leavening agents and sweeteners.  Part 4 will discuss some strategies for doing iterations and troubleshooting your recipes.  You may also be interested in some of my posts that reference paleo baking ingredients:  Important Pantry Items for The Paleo Baker, Paleo Flour Substitutes, Sugar vs. Sweeteners, and Is Sugar Paleo?).

I am continuing to expand my paleo baking tool kit by playing with new ingredients.  Below is a list of all the paleo flour substitutes I can think of and other ingredients that add bulk to a recipe.  Some of these are still fairly new to me, so I still have fairly limited experience with them.  Which flour substitute(s) you choose really depends on the type of recipe and what the texture of the finished product should be.  I will try and give you enough information to help get you started.

Blanched Almond FlourThis is the stereotypical paleo flour substitute.  A high quality blanched almond flour (like Honeyville Farms or JK Gourmet) is very finely milled and can be quite light compared to other nut and seed flours or even a less finely milled almond flour (like Bob’s Red Mill, which I consider and almond meal).  Generally, it measures 1:1 when substituting for wheat flour.  It works very well in baking where you want a denser crumb, like muffins, coffee cakes and chewy cookies.  In recipes that also have a fairly large amount of wet ingredients, adding a starch or coconut flour can be helpful.

Almond MealThis is a less finely ground version of blanched almond flour.  It typically uses the whole almond (like NaturAlmond, Trader Joe’s or Honeyville Farms) but some blanched almond flours (like Bob’s Red Mill) actually qualify more as a meal than a flour.  This is best for breading meat, but also can be used for dense baking like dense cakes (e.g. fruit cake), some cookie recipes and pie crusts.  If you are using almond meal in place of almond flour in a recipe, use slightly less as it tends to be denser.

Coconut FlourThis flour has a very high fiber content and absorbs liquid very efficiently, so it is really only used in recipes that have a large amount of wet ingredients.  Because it makes for a finer crumb than nut flours, I like coconut flour for cake and cupcake recipes.  It is also good for shortbread style cookies.  This is a very tricky flour to work with; often 1tsp can make the difference between the texture you are going for and something completely different.  When doing iterations with recipes that use coconut flour, always make small changes to the amount of flour used.  Always sift coconut flour before adding to your recipe, unless you are blending your batter in a blender or food processor.  When you add coconut flour to wet ingredients, the batter will thicken as it sits for the first few minutes.  It’s always a good idea to give your batter time to thicken before putting it in the oven.  The general rule of thumb is to replace wheat flour with ¼ the amount of coconut flour.  This will be sufficient for some recipes; but if you need to bulk up your dry ingredients, you can then add some nut or seed flours to bring the volume up a little (a good place to start is with the same volume you are using of coconut flour).  Different coconut flour brands do behave slightly differently depending on how finely they are ground.  I typically use Tropical Traditions brand now but I find that Bob’s Red Mill behaves very similarly.

Arrowroot PowderThis is the dehydrated and ground arrowroot tuber (not the cassava root).  It is mostly a starch and is great for adding lightness to a recipe (also lovely for thickening sauces).  Arrowroot powder can replace corn starch in recipe 1:1.  You can also mix arrowroot powder with very finely ground granulated sugar to make an acceptable substitute for icing/confectioner’s sugar.  If replacing wheat flour with arrowroot flour to add lightness to a recipe, replacing up to ¼ of your flour with arrowroot is typical.  I love using arrowroot in conjunction with coconut flour for cake recipes.  It doesn’t add much hold to baking that don’t have much binding ingredients, though.  I use arrowroot powder frequently enough that I actually use the Subscribe&Save program from amazon to have it automatically shipped to me.

Tapioca StarchThis starch comes from the ground cassava (a.k.a. yucca, yuca, manioc, tapioca) root.  This is not the same as arrowroot powder.  Even though many people use tapioca and arrowroot interchangeably, they actually have fairly different properties in baking.  Tapioca adds elasticity to baking, helping bind as well as giving more bounce (the cassava root is naturally a very slimy starch).  Tapioca nice to use in paleo bread recipes and can be useful in cake recipes as well to give a little more bounce to the baking.  You can replace up to about half of the flour normally called for in a recipe with tapioca (some gluten-free baking replaces all of the flour with tapioca, but tapioca is probably the least healthy of the paleo flours, so I don’t recommend this).  Tapioca also isn’t a very good substitute for corn starch, but would do in a pinch.

Most paleo baking you will find on my site and others use various combinations of the above four flours.  But, these aren’t the only paleo flours out there and there are some really great less-frequently used options to consider.

Plantain FlourPlantain flour is quickly becoming one of my favorite flours to work with, although I am still experimenting with it.  It is simply ground dehydrated plantain.  It does have a distinct plantain taste so it doesn’t work in all baking.  It has a lovely ability to bind (similar to tapioca starch, but with more of a wheat flour like texture and crumb) and generally can be substitute wheat flour 1:1.  It seems to work very well in soft, cakey and/or chewy baking recipes and not as well if you want some crunch or crispness.  A word of caution.  Some flour are labeled as plantain flour but actually contain a mix of different tubers, often containing potato starch in addition to plantain flour.   If you are buying this from a store, make sure to check the ingredients label.  I buy Barry Farm plantain flour from amazon.

Sweet Potato StarchThis is sometimes labeled as sweet potato flour, but this fine white powder is actually a processed flour/starch.  It substitutes well for arrowroot, but has almost no ability to hold baking together.  You can use this as a corn starch substitute or in combination with other flours as a flour substitute.  I’m not super enthusiastic about this starch, but it’s a good option if arrowroot is hard for you to find.

Sweet Potato PowderThis is also sometimes labeled as sweet potato flour, which can be very confusing.  Sweet potato powder is ground dried sweet potatoes and still retains its orange color (sweet potato starch is white).  This is a more interesting flour because it has some fiber and can absorb liquid so it has more ability to hold baking together.  I have used it in pancakes and have played with it as a flour substitute for brownies.  I’m still getting familiar with this flour, but it’s definitely a neat one to play with.

Kuzu StarchI am just starting to play with kuzu starch (which is ground dehydrated kuzu root, used in Asian cooking).  Apparently, it is even better than arrowroot at thickening and I’m hoping that it will be useful to help get a few recipes I’m working on a little firmer in texture.

Sunflower Seed FlourFor those allergic to nuts or just almonds, sunflower seed flour can be used the same as almond flour (it can be a little denser depending on brand, so you might need to pull back the amount somewhat).  It has the fun property of turning green when used in baking that also contains baking soda (it’s totally safe to eat when it does this).

Hazelnut FlourThis can also be used the same as almond flour, but yields a different flavor to the baking.

Chestnut FlourThis can also be used the same as almond flour, but yields a different flavor to the baking.  It has a  more hold than almond flour, which is very handy, so you can easily use this flour on its own in some recipe.  It’s also quite a bit sweeter so you may want to reduce the sweet ingredients in your recipe if you are using this.

Pumpkin Seed FlourThis is another seed alternative to almond flour.  Pumpkin seed flour measures more closely to almond flour due to its higher protein content.  Also has a distinct flavor and slightly green color and is easier to make at home than most other nut flours.

Ground nuts and seeds—Ground nuts and seeds are a wonderful way to add more texture and bulk to making.  Many of them can help act as binders as well.  Mostly, you’ll be grinding your own in a food processor or blender.  A finer grind will act more like a nut flour, but you can also grind more coarsely which replicates the texture of oatmeal or other whole grain ingredients very well.  Making a mix of different nuts can replicate the flavor and texture of oatmeal and can help fix texture problems when working on denser baking recipes like cookies and muffins.  Ground flax seed also qualifies here as a way to add bulk and texture to baking and is an excellent binder too.  Chia seeds are often used similarly to flax seeds but these are a pseudograin, and Prof. Loren Cordain comes down pretty hard on chia in The Paleo Answer.  My favorites to use are Whole Almonds, Pecan Halves, Walnuts HalvesMacadamia Nuts, Hazelnuts (Filberts), Pistachios, Cashews, Brazil NutsPepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds), Sunflower Seeds, Brown Sesame Seeds, Black Sesame Seeds, and ground flax seed (golden or regular, which act the same but just look different).  The combination of walnuts, coconut, and pumpkin seeds makes for a fantastic oat-like flavor (see my recipe for paleo porridge, “oatmeal” cookies, and apple crisp for examples).

Finely Shredded CoconutThis is also a good bulking ingredient, similar to ground nuts and seeds but with a slightly different texture and flavor.  Because of the fiber content, it will absorb a little liquid (although nothing like coconut flour), so it does behave slightly differently than other nuts and seeds.

Vegetable Powders—Pumpkin, carrot, spinach, sweet potato, winter squash, red cabbage, and beet powders are all available.  I have only used a handful of these in pancake recipes, but I think these are a very fun way to deal with recipes where you want the sweetness and maybe flavor of these vegetables but are struggling with too many wet ingredients.  These are also a great way to add natural color to recipes (usually you can use little enough that these contribute color but not flavor).

Pureed Green Plantain—This is my newest secret weapon in paleo baking.  Green plantains are very starchy, have a fairly neutral flavor and can act as a binder and give bulk to a recipe.  I have several recipes that use green plantains and many more ideas for this versatile fruit!  Check out my paleo pancakes, paleo crepes, and decadent double chocolate cookie recipes for examples.  Ripe plantains are another option, but behave quite differently in baking (sweeter, more flavorful, act more as a binder than a flour).

Pureed or Ground Root Vegetables —Don’t underestimate the versatility of canned or pureed root vegetables in your baking.  And you aren’t limited to canned pumpkin.  Sweet potato, yucca, taro, parsnip, carrot, winter squash, and plantain are all good options (see my recipe for paleo biscuits for an example).  When cooked and pureed, they can both act as a binder and add bulk to a recipe (see my spinach brownies or pumpkin gingerbread muffin recipes as examples).  When ground and raw, they have a very different effect on texture (see my carrot parsnip muffins for an example).  They also can add some sweetness without the use of sugars and the flavors are often well camouflaged by other ingredients.

So, which one do you use?  The classic is to use almond flour on its own or in conjunction with arrowroot, tapioca and/or coconut flour as a first attempt in a recipe.  The reason why this is so common is because the ingredients are fairly easy for most people to find and they are fairly predictable in how they will behave in recipes.  And while I encourage you to play with the other flour substitute options, to get you started on your paleofying adventure here is my basic formula for replacing wheat flour with almond, coconut, arrowroot and/or tapioca flours.

  1. For a recipe without many wet ingredients (like cookies):  replace wheat flour with 80-100% almond flour, 0-20% arrowroot or tapioca (depending on whether I want the lightness or the elasticity) and 0-20% coconut flour.  Yes, there is a range here.  I am more likely to use a starch and coconut flour if the volume of flour is fairly high (almond flour is expensive!).
  2. For a recipe with substantial wet ingredients (like muffins or cakes):  replace wheat flour with 25% nut flour, 25% coconut flour, 25% arrowroot or tapioca (depending on whether I want the lightness or the elasticity).  Yes, this doesn’t add up to 100%, which is because of the properties of coconut flour.
  3. I don’t have a fixed formula for replacing flours when the desired outcome is nut-free.  I just wing it.
  4. These are just my first iterations.  Sometimes I change things up as soon as I see the texture and thickness of the batter (that might be harder for you to do if you aren’t used to working with the flours).  After I see what the texture and taste is of my first attempt, I either change quantities or try different flours.  And of course, as I play with other flour substitutes, this may change, my default formulas are likely to change.

I hope this will get you started on your paleofying adventures.  As you play more and more with these ingredients and get to understand their properties better, it will be easier to intuit what will work in any particular recipe.  But, I still have recipes that take me many iterations to get right.  And of course, if you adapt a recipe that is absolutely awesome, you are welcome to e-mail it to me to share on the blog:  thepaleomommy@gmail.com